A Visit to "Gringalandia"

I think that the only way to truly know that you love a place is if you miss it. This weekend I visited some friends in San Cristóbal de las Casas, about 7 hours away. It was amazing and I had a blast, but on the way home I kept thinking about the kids at DIF, my apartment, and the oppressive heat. When we passed through Huixtla, about 40 minutes outside of Tapachula, Rachel looked over at me and said, "Aren't you kind of excited to get back?" Yes, yes I was.

One of the girls, Rosita (3 years old)

Aremi and I (2 1/2 years old)

Before I start going on and on about San Cris and how great it is, I want to take a little bit of time to recap that past two weeks in Tapachula. Emotionally, it's been pretty up and down. Working at DIF can be tough, especially with the language barrier. I can tell the kids to stop hitting each other or not to climb on things (not surprisingly, this happens a lot) but when I have to explain why these things are wrong it's difficult to articulate and get the kids to listen to me. I know that it would be difficult in English, but it's Spanish it sometimes feels impossible. Over the past two weeks my Spanish has definitely started to improve, which makes me excited. Once, I even spoke in Spanish in my sleep (I'm sure Rachel loved that...)! 

Sometimes I get home from work exhausted, sweaty, and covered in refried beans. Sometimes the work day goes by insanely slow. But overall, it's worth it and I'm happy. I love helping the kids with puzzles, drawing with them, and just seeing them learn. There is a new woman in charge of Casa Camasc and she has worked wonders on the place. This past weekend, four of the girls were moved to a more permanent shelter where there is space to play outside, the girls go to school everyday, and there are opportunities like music or dance lessons. It was sad to see them go, but to know that someone at DIF is truly taking action and advocating for these girls made me happy and inspired.

Arelix (14 years old), Lupita (3 years old) and I

In addition to settling in at work, I'm getting used to living in Tapachula. I don't sweat as much (or maybe I just don't notice it). I learned how to light a gas stove. I'm getting good at ignoring the stares we get everywhere we go. I've perfected my accent on the phrase "Te vaya bien!" so I use it pretty much any time I'm saying goodbye to anyone. I have a sense of the city, so when I'm in a taxi I pretty much know where we're going. Yes, I'm still the gringa, but I've definitely adjusted to and embraced that label as well as Tapachula.

New friends!

Enjoying the sun at Playa Linda!

Last weekend, we had the opportunity to visit San Cristobal where 3 of my other friends are doing their social service. San Cris is one of the huge tourist centers of Chiapas and I can see why. It is absolutely stunning. Nestled in the mountains, surrounded by indigenous villages and inhabited by ex-pat hippies, the city is beautiful. As one of my new Tapachulan friends said, "Bienvenida a Gringalandia" or "Welcome to Gringa Land" It was the first time in a month I felt like I fit in, belonged in a place. Wandering around with my camera and North Face backpack I didn't feel stupid. It was a nice break, that's for sure. The cobblestone streets are lined with cute cafes and restaurants, serving all kinds of food. Seeing friends from DC was great and they showed us all around the city, from the Zocolo to the huge artist's market. We went salsa dancing, ate bagels and pizza, bargained for Mayan clothing and jewelry, and took touristy photos.

The Zocolo (main plaza)

Rachel and I strike a pose

One of the many gorgeous, cafe filled streets of San Cris

Trying on the best PJ pants ever at the market (don't worry, I bought them)

At the beginning of my experience in Tapachula I was reading the blogs of my friends in San Cris and laughed a little (sorry guys!) They were so taken in my this beautiful, romanticized city. I was having basically the opposite experience so I guess maybe I just didn't get it. San Cris is well-known for being a hub of Zapatista activity, specifically as the site of some of the rebellions after NAFTA in 1994. Since then, people from all over the world have flooded the city to be a part of the movement and aid the campesinos. Now I see why. The Zapatista struggle for the basic right of land and for someone to listen to their voices is inspiring. Not to mention Subcomandante Marcos is pretty cute. Sunday morning we ate at this little cafe called "Tierra Adentro" which is surrounded by stores selling products made by campesinos and organic food. My coffee, juice, and omelette were perfect. The placemats are filled with inspiring quotes from all over the world that embody the Zapatista movement. It reminded me of why I came here in the first place. Not just to learn about Mexico or improve my Spanish, but to get to know and understand a group of people and help create change.

Posing with my "Tres Chocolates" at a French bakery

Chorizo Omelette..best decision ever.

Ombeline and I on the streets of San Cris, convent roomies reunited!

On the long ride home through the mountains, I felt so content and lucky. Here I am, living in this hot city known as the armpit of Mexico doing what I love, speaking a language I hope to be fluent in someday, making new friends, eating delicious food, and doing good. Could it get any better than this?